Posted by Diane Valenti on Wed, Feb 09, 2011 @ 09:48 PM
Peru is a hiker’s paradise. The scenery is stunning—llamas grazing in the shadows of majestic glaciers, locals doing chores in their colorful garb, exotic birds flitting through the cloud forest. As you pass through rural mountain communities, you gain a glimpse into a lifestyle that is not much different from that of the Incas.
My biggest obstacle to enjoying this hiking experience, though, is the discomfort that comes from hiking at high altitude. There never seems to be enough air. A hike I might consider moderately strenuous at sea level turns into an epic endurance event at altitude.
Since I trek at least a couple times a year in Peru to scout potential routes, I’ve had to find ways to make the experience more comfortable, more doable. Here are the eight lessons I’ve learned that work for me.
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Do drugs. I always take Diomox. I start a couple of days before I arrive at high altitude. I continue the medication during the hike until I get to a reasonable altitude (for me that‘s about 8,000 feet) and I know I won’t be ascending again. I’ve found that it’s better to stay ahead of the symptoms than to deal with them once they appear, especially when hiking. Who wants to hike with a pounding headache or sick stomach?
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Chew coca leaves. You’ll see the porters on the Inca Trail chewing coca leaves all day long. When I trek in Peru, I do too. They help me breathe at high altitude. One word of caution, though–coca leaves can give you an upset stomach. So, if you’ve never had them, try them before you leave the comfort of your hotel room.
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Drink plenty of water. It is essential to combating altitude sickness. I also think it’s easy not to realize how much water you are losing. This is because the air is so dry that you don’t realize how much you are sweating. This makes dehydration a real possibility.
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Focus on exhaling. This seems counterintuitive. However, I’ve found when I focus on exhaling strongly, I can inhale more deeply. This means I don’t run out of breath as quickly.
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Slow down. I once followed an old Quechua woman up a steep path. She strolled slowly. I did the same. I realized that it was better to go at a pace I could maintain for a really long time than to have to stop constantly to catch my breath because I was hiking too fast.
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Take small steps going uphill. The steeper the incline, the smaller my steps. This trick reduces the level of effort needed to climb.
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Traverse the hill. When I neared 13,000 feet on the Salkantay trek, I hiked back and forth across the path and slowly ascended. I’m sure it looked weird, but it reduced the level of effort I needed to make progress.
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Be patient. People who live at sea level are not going to move as fast at high altitude. There is no need to compete with the locals who will pass you moving at top speed in their flip-flops. So, relax and enjoy the scenery. You’ll make it to camp in due time.
Posted by Diane Valenti on Mon, Jan 31, 2011 @ 01:01 PM
Over drinks the other night, a friend mentioned how much she missed going backpacking here in California. The problem was she didn’t have anyone to go with. Then, she gave me one of those looks. You see she knows that I do a lot of backpacking in Peru and is mystified why I only indulge in this sport south of the equator.
Here are my reasons. In Peru:
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I don’t have to carry my own backpack. I carry a daypack with water and snacks while a horse, llama, or porter carries my backpack.
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I eat gourmet meals on the trail. Lomo saltado, homemade soup, pancakes and eggs, freshly popped popcorn, and trout are examples of some of the meals I’ve eaten while backpacking. No Top Ramen, freeze-dried veggies, or beef jerky for me!
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The cook brings a steaming cup of coca tea to my tent each morning. It’s not quite breakfast in bed, but it’s as close as I’ve gotten while camping.
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If I get really tired or sprain an ankle, I can ride the emergency horse. (Note there is no emergency horse on the Inca Trail, so you better be in good shape before you attempt it. Also, if you weigh more than 170 or 180 pounds, you’re on your own. The horses in Peru are too small to carry you.)
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The porters set up bathroom tents at camp so I don’t have to look for a random tree or rock to hide behind while I am there.
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A professional, knowledgeable guide ensures that I don’t get lost, describes local flora and fauna, explains what I am looking at when I pass through Inca ruins, and shares stories about life in Peru.
In short, backpacking in Peru is an interesting combination of roughing it and luxury. And, that little bit of luxury makes all the difference!
Posted by Diane Valenti on Fri, Dec 17, 2010 @ 04:06 PM
The first thing you notice when you step off the plane in Cusco, Peru is that it feels like there is no air. Just walking to baggage claim leaves you winded. The second thing you notice is that coca is ubiquitous. Coca tea, coca candy, even plain old coca leaves are everywhere. Plus, there’s a coca shop in Cusco that serves brownies so rich that it should be a sin to eat them.
I must admit that when I am trekking in Peru, I chew coca leaves like a cow chews its cud. I don’t get buzzed, high, or even super energetic from coca leaves. Although there are times, trekking uphill for example, when I wish they would make me super energetic.
Turns out that coca leaves help alleviate the symptoms of mild altitude sickness—something that becomes increasingly important the higher you go. So, if you are planning to go to Cusco, I hope that you’ll enjoy a cup of coca tea. Or better yet, head to the coca shop for a brownie!